According to my planning, I left the still sleeping La Serena on January 1, 2024. My trip went to the North, deliberately not to the south of Chile because of the completely different climate and structure, similar to my previous cycling trip in Norway. That's why I chose the desert-like north this time.
My traveling companions soon became two aggressive dogs chasing me. The stray dog in Chile is an underestimated enemy and a dangerous pest here that I will talk about in more detail in my next blog story.
Cycling Adventure 15 (CA15) is my path of personal growth with which I want to inspire people to develop their own path of personal growth in this rapidly changing world.
Gradually I realized that bikepacking in Northern Chile was of a completely different order than my previous adventures, a kind of 'next level'.
My first ride strictly followed the mapped route that Strava had prepared. It took me away from the big roads and into small villages and paths that quickly became unsuitable for my heavily loaded gravel bike. Stuck in stones and sand dunes, I was forced to turn back. Without cell phone coverage, I used my Garmin device to find an alternate route. Luckily I found a slightly better road where I didn't meet a soul for two hours. It was my first day in the impressive mountain landscape of northern Chile.
Gradually I realized that bikepacking in Northern Chile was of a completely different order than my previous adventures, a kind of 'next level'. Due to the unreliable Strava route information, my estimate of time and distance turned out to be unrealistic. Moreover, cycling with my heavily loaded 23 kg gravel bike proved to be more challenging, which meant I rode much slower than expected. A frustrating phenomenon that stood in my way and is apparently known to Chilean cyclists is the fact that a strong wind is blowing straight downhill, meaning you still have to pedal.
I decided against my nature to let go of my planning .
I decided against my nature to let go of my schedule, cancel all accommodations and take it one day at a time.
My first night I stayed at a small campsite hidden behind the houses of a small village and run by a friendly young couple. It was January 1 and a family of Chileans had also chosen that campsite. They danced and partied until midnight. They were very friendly people who offered me a fish sandwich and gave me tips for my route the next day.
My sense of happiness was severely damaged by a flat tire shortly after departure. During the repair I discovered that my tire was slightly torn, probably from driving between rocks on the first day. Despite the fact that I had a spare tire with me, it proved impossible for me to fit it. I had no choice but to put the broken tire on and hope it held up. My happiness was short-lived as I broke down again at the end of the ride entering Vallenar, but luckily a friendly Chilean man offered help and took me to my accommodation.
The next day I sought help from a small bicycle shop to have the tire installed. The experienced bicycle mechanic was ultimately only able to install the tire himself with the help of a hairdryer. Will I have to take a hairdryer with me in the future?
I enjoyed this beautiful landscape and adventure with full consciousness
The next few days I drove along the Pacific Ocean and stayed overnight in locally booked hostels or B&Bs. You notice everywhere that people still live in old, sometimes pieced together houses. The digital world has not yet penetrated here. Mobile coverage is scarce and in some villages people still go to the PC shop to use the internet.
I enjoyed this beautiful landscape and adventure with full awareness, while occasionally reflecting on my personal growth path. In particular, feelings of gratitude came to mind for the happiness I have with my family, friends and work.
The reward was commensurate thanks to the most beautiful starry sky I had ever seen.
To cycle from the village of Taltal to Antofagasta, you have to cross part of the Andes mountains. In the meantime, I had gained more experience and was aware that this would require two cycling days. During the first day of cycling I was able to reach the center of the route at an altitude of 2100 meters, with no mobile reception. I had warned my family in advance that I would not be available and that if they did not hear from me after the second day, they should sound the alarm.
The “extra category” climb of 32 km that started from Paposo awaited me. I didn't find any concrete information about the climb beforehand, which in retrospect was a good thing, otherwise I might not have started it. The extra water meant I had to carry 26 kg on top of my body weight. The first 10 km of the climb, with an average gradient of 10 to 12 percent and a temperature flirting with 50 degrees, presented a tough mental challenge.
But the reward was commensurate. I reached the top of the climb at 2100m at dusk ESO's Paranal Observatory, one of the world's very best astronomical observing sites and the flagship for European astronomy. That was the place where I pitched my tent and enjoyed the most beautiful starry sky I had ever seen in complete darkness. It took me back to my time when I studied astronomy at the University of Leuven, where the professors talked extensively about this observatory in Chile. An unforgettable experience in the Atacama Desert.
Perhaps planning too much in advance is not always a good idea. 😉
Stay tuned for my next story about the last part of solo cycling adventure in Northern Chile 👋
Some numbers of my rides:
| Rith | trip from | #km | #Hours by bike | #Altitude mtrs |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 01/01 | La Serena | 106 | 6u07 | 1415 |
| 02/01 | The FIG tree | 158 | 8u06 | 1563 |
| 03/01 | Vallenar | 86 | 4u03 | 451 |
| 04/01 | Huasco – Carrizal | 142 | 7u40 | 1309 |
| 05/01 | Bahia Inglesa | 147 | 7u19 | 1587 |
| 06/01 | Chañaral – Conchuela | 153 | 8u14 | 1896 |
| 07/01 | Taltal – El Puerto | 107 | 7u53 | 2555 |
| 08/01 | Sierra Paposo | 121 | 5u35 | 491 |
Wow Bart!!! This is indeed an adventure of a different order (Asia was “piece-of-cake” when I read this! 🙂 ). It's amazing how you're pushing boundaries here. Respect man! Take a good rest now and enjoy the last stretches. Be careful and see you soon! Hug. Philip
Good job Bart!! Outdoing yourself physically and mentally big time! Beautiful images. So beautiful . But what an effort it took to get there, we don't see that in the photos... good courage and hopefully above all luck and no more bad luck for the rest. We ride along virtually. Kiss! Stan
That's quite an intense adventure again..amai great!!!
You have to cherish such intense moments.
The humanity among the population there will certainly be a great added value to your overall experience.
Enjoy it buddy.
But above all, be careful and alert.
Another safe and blissful transit
See you soon. Geert
Sorry Bart, I forgot to mention stray dogs.
I am very happy that you are falling in love with Chile step by step (the most beautiful country in the world, right?). Super inspiring blog, I really travel with you!
Be super careful, especially with the sun, Chile itself is safe.
Herman
Hi Bart,
What a story. It's like we're in the middle of it again. Pushing your boundaries once again, which were already so broad.
Good luck with the 2nd part of your adventure.
We keep our fingers crossed for you and sympathize with you.
Our problems have suddenly become “peanuts”.
Good luck and be careful.
Greetings, Dirk V
Wow Bucky, unreal things again.
Stay safe!
Beautiful to read, incredibly inspiring!!!
Above all, enjoy it and “be safe”
Chic things Bart, magnificent landscapes to toil through. enjoy it….
Hey buddy, wow what a hellish adventure!!!
Already looking forward to the next story 🤩💪👍
Whaaaaw Bart!!
I had the feeling that you had already been through some things, but now in Chile apparently it was of a different order! Well, a challenge is needed for our Bart. 🙂
Congratulations for your groundbreaking work! Be careful and hello. 👍😉
GREAT, BART!!!!!!
Bart, I read your text, look at your photos, read between the lines again... POWERFUL! So beautiful, so desolate.
During the hardest time... you experience the most beautiful thing. Goosebumps!
You owe yourself an unforgettable experience and memory of pedaling. Hats off!
Keep going, persevering, enjoying and safe, buddy!
Jurgen
Mo Bart boy, what an experience and achievement: we'll be ringing in the new year when we return 🤞take care Veerle 🍀
Hi Bart,
looks great mate! Inspiration! First time that everything involved is just as big a (mental) challenge as the physical part. I really admire you that without being the great camper (as you wrote yourself and to be honest I really didn't see that in you ;-)) you don't shy away from anything, you just do it and completely outside your comfort zone in your tent lies down in a deserted desert. I'm beginning to suspect that you have (quietly) read a book by Wayne Dyer 😉 ? That link to the stars, bearing in mind our student days, must have been magical for you, you will never forget it, beautiful puzzle. I am also very curious about your physical experience at the highest altitude with 60% oxygen. I'll hear about it later.
'Life is like a book. The question is: are you the author or was it written by others' 😉
Good luck and keep it safe!
Bart,
what an adventure! I'm amazed at what you're accomplishing now. I feel deep respect and admiration.
In any case, keep it safe and listen to your body. But I know you will reach the end point.
Stay in good spirits and I long to hear your stories live 🙂
Non-binding culinary tip for CA15 Tours:
Because you're not in South Korea
A wild dog on a spit
Under a beautiful starry sky with a glass of wine
That's all it should be for a tourer
Enjoy and stay safe!
H
Salut Bart,
Super impressive, the paysages are very impressive on their own croissants and all the thanks for the part. C'est vrai que ça change de l'Asie…. take advantage of the moments present.
Super top ce voyage. Prends bien soin de toi. À très bientôt pour la suite des adventures.💪🏼👍☺️
Bart,
Punishing adventure!
Enjoy your 2nd part and many more safe kilometers without a broken tire.
Good luck.
Greetings
Patrick
Hi Bart,
Well worth what you have been through so far! Keep it safe and be sure to enjoy the beautiful and raw nature and the beautiful starry sky.
Greetings from U.S.
Wow, copain, deep respect and inspiring. and what an experience, even though the challenges are really next level and seriously outside the comfort zone. It's great how you deal with this because it is certainly not obvious.
I really wish you much success and, above all, enough time to enjoy yourself. be sure to listen to your body and stay safe, looking forward to seeing Bart 4.0 again and the continuation of your adventure.
take care mate!
Kris and co
Dear Bart,
As ordered by Mr Gabriel Boric, please contact us ASAP (as soon as you have a mobile connection).
We have, from a well-trusted source, clear indications that you might organize a BBQ with wild dogs on 't spit.
Please be informed that this is illegal (unless we are invited, of course).
As a present, we can bring a hairdryer, very useful in the desert for any bike repair.
Looking forward to your RSVP.
Greetings & Saludos,
Dartodo Madera de Buganvilla
Welcome to South America, Bart!
I am amazed, but not surprised, by your courage and perseverance to keep going, pushing yourself, and enjoying this beautiful journey and accepting the challenges. These stunning pictures are a treat for all of us, but I cannot imagine the true experience you are having. I am proud of all the mental and physical challenges you have overcome so far. Keep pushing yourself and capturing these beautiful moments in your memory to share with us later.
With all my respect and great admiration. I'm proud of you.
Hi Bart,
Thank you for sharing these enriching experiences and words! I have consciously taken the time to read this adventure and am already looking forward to July 2024!